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[avionicspro]

Model #: HLN617W Manuf Date: May 03

History: Purchased unit used this past January. The original owner replaced the lamp recently but I cannot confirm by what manufacture or brand name (no information on the lamp itself). It worked fine for approx 3 weeks and then the color wheel exploded and made nice mess in the casing. We replaced the color wheel ( I cannont find the paperwork to determine the brand) purchased from an eBay store for $100.

Turned the TV back on and everything appeared to be fine (color, lighting, etc). After watching the set for a time (hours) shutting it off and then turning it back on the set starts the boot up process (light blinks on front, sound is good) but never fires the lamp. The set will recycle 2 more times and all the lights on the front flash. the only way to get the set to work is to unplug the power cord after use and plug it back in when you're ready to use it again. I typically leave it plugged in for a while so the fan can run and cool the lamp before unplugging it. When the set does intialize everything works fine, just don't shut it off.

I want to check off the lamp as a possible culpret as the set worked fine until the color wheel explosion but after reading these threads I don't want to rule out anything. I tried to check the ballast test point you mentioned on another thread but couldn't get an accurate reading. What are you using for your negative lead ground point (set framing, a ground point)? Is there a way to check or jumper the color wheel speed sensor to determine if the sensor is bad and thus causing the lamp not to fire due to the wheel not reaching the proper rpm?

What do you recommend I do next?

Thanks Bill T.

[avionicspro]

I just read further in the threads and was able to see how to check the ballast volatge.

Ballast voltage is 386vdc constant.

[avionicspro]

latest update-

I was able to jumper the transistor on the ballast board as described in the other thread. I can get the bulb to fire up, the screen turns a dark shade of red and the "Lamp" LED continues to flash on the front of the unit. Color wheel problems? Wheel not spinning up or getting up to proper RPM?

[avionicspro]

Another Latest Update:

Pulled the bulb out and found the color wheel doesn't spin (this is why on my last post I noted the red screen, the CW was stopped on Red). Checked all connections and made sure the wheel spins free. Reassembled and the same results. I imagine there is a timing circuit of sorts that tells the lamp to fire when the wheel gets up to speed.

Haven't found any thread on how to troubleshoot the color wheel or voltage supply to CW. Why/what would cause the CW to not spin after warming up and shutting down? There hasn't been any obvious noise to indicate a bad wheel. Any help will do. Nice thing is you have a good set of threads going here so reading through the posts has helped troubleshoot a long ways down the line.

Color Wheel Info:
Oerlikon Shanghi Co. LTD.
Samsung 10226881
barcode # SM072985

[avionicspro]

can anyone help me with this?

[ovadoggvo]

avionicspro,
The colorwheel may not be bad, but it does seem like the cw sensor board is.. It comes on the color wheel housing. I would order a new wheel and then troubleshoot further. Your ballast is good, your power supply is good (since you can force on the ballast).. You are not getting 5vdc from the DMD board probably because the color wheel is not being detected at sufficient RPM.

Sorry about the delay in response! I was out of town until late last night...

Another issue could be a bad DMD or Digital board. The remote control not functioning is most likely a DBoard issue.

Let us know how it goes.

[avionicspro]

ovadoggvo,

Thanks for the reply!

Before buying another CW, is there a way to power the one I have to see if it spins? If so what pins to +/- @ 5vdc. As I said in the previous posts, I acutally found the wheel wasn't spinning at all (that was the red screen when I powered the lamp itself). When the unit powers up, does the DMD provide immediate power to the CW or is there something else that needs to happen before the wheel spins (if the sensor is inop will it inhibit the DMD from providing the startup voltage for the CW)?

Is there a way to troubleshoot the CW Sensor board? How about a PT#. I don't see anything on D-M for this part or the whole housing assy.

Thanks again,
Bill T.

[ovadoggvo]

avionicspro,
There is no way to really test the color wheel for power.

Here is how the TV powers on:

PS Power unit to system standby --> Power button is pressed --> Check for Lamp Cover Door Switch -> Signal is sent to power on -> ColorWheel Spins (If proper connection / rpm is detected) -> Sends signal to DMD board (Dmd finds that the CW is spinning properly at required RPM) -> DMD sends signal to ballast -> Ballast Fires on lamp (Check to see if lamp fires and stays on) -> Reports back to DMD -> DMD sends info to Digital board -> Digital board powers on and starts boot procedure of OS and DNIe.

It's late at night and i'm tired, i hope i explained it all right!

As for forcing on the color wheel, I don't have a procedure for that but it would be difficult to do.

[avionicspro]

great explanation, I understand how the boot sequence works now.

It seems it would be safe to assume that because the system would initially fire up when the set hadn't been run for some time and color wheel was cool but failed to fire up after the set was shut down and then powered back on within a relatively short period of time there would have to be a problem with the new color wheel.

Is the lamp cover door switch the switch located on the far back right corner of the set? The switch rotates both down and up, is there a specific way the switch should be positioned? Is there a way to jumper it?

Is there no pick-off/lead or test point for the voltage that drives the color wheel?

Thanks for the help
Bill T.

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